Natural or artificial lawn: what to choose and how much material I need

Before deciding between natural and artificial lawn you need to be clear about the real maintenance the client is willing to take on, not just the result on day one. And in either case, the soil base under the lawn matters as much to the final result as the lawn itself.

Turf, seed or artificial: three different solutions

• Rolled turf: ready-grown sections, instant effect from day one. It needs intensive, frequent watering for the first 2–3 weeks to take root — if the client can't water daily in that period, it's better to tell them before installing, because turf that doesn't root dries out and must be replaced. Purchase margin: +10% for offcuts and finishing.
• Lawn seed: cheaper, but the result is only visible after several weeks of growth and several germination waterings. A hard-wearing mix tolerates foot traffic better; a fine luxury mix gives a more manicured look but needs more continuous maintenance.
• Artificial grass: no watering or mowing maintenance. The pile height determines the use: 20–30 mm for walkways or terraces for its firmness underfoot, 35–40 mm for a more natural, plush look, although it recovers a little more slowly from continuous traffic. Purchase margin: +8%.

The base matters as much as the lawn

A layer of at least 10–15 cm of screened topsoil is the real base of a lawn that holds up well over time, whether turf or seed. Skimping on this item to save money ends up costing you in the final result.

Worked example: to prepare 30 m² with 15 cm of topsoil: 30 × (15/100) = 4.5 m³ of soil to buy. This is the same calculation the PresupuestoYa calculator applies automatically for the Gardener trade.

Decorative aggregates: by volume, not by area

For areas without lawn (beds, paths, borders), decorative gravel or pine bark is calculated by volume, not by m²: area × layer thickness. A layer of 5–8 cm is enough to cover the weed membrane underneath properly — with less thickness, the membrane shows through, especially with light-coloured gravels.

The difference between the two: mineral gravel is practically permanent, whereas pine bark breaks down over time and has to be topped up every 1–2 years, although it adds organic matter to the soil as it decomposes.

Irrigation: not every part of the garden needs the same system

• Drip: waters point by point, very water-efficient. Ideal for hedges, shrubs and flower beds — less so for large areas of lawn, because it only wets the root zone.
• Sprinkler: for lawn areas. The pop-up sprinkler hides below lawn level when not watering, avoiding knocks from the mower; the fixed one is cheaper but more exposed to breakage.
• Zone controller: separates the lawn, a flower bed and a hedge into different zones, because they don't have the same need for watering frequency or duration.

Frequently asked questions

How long does rolled turf take to root? 2–3 weeks, with intensive and frequent watering during that period so it grips the ground well.

What height of artificial grass should I choose for a high-traffic terrace? 20–30 mm: it is firmer underfoot and recovers better from continuous use than taller piles.

How much topsoil do I need before sowing a lawn? At least 10–15 cm thickness of screened soil, free of stones and roots, as the minimum recommended base.

Conclusion

Choosing well between turf, seed or artificial according to the real maintenance available, and not skimping on the topsoil base, is what decides whether the garden holds up well over time or has to be repaired within a few months. Calculating aggregates and soil by volume, not just area, gives a precise gardening quote from the first order.